A pack of 20 costs little more than £1 and you only need 1. A 3 surface mount resistor is the perfect size and resistance to 'trick' the motherboard into booting. This is the only modification that needs to be done for the macro to function properly, without this modification the macro will fail to boot as it will try to connect to the top screen we've disconnected. Score the trench with a hobby knife, sand with 400 grit and fill with epoxy clay, mixed 1:1 and use a plastic card with water to sculpt a nice flat surface let it cure for 24 hours.EITHER file down the right bump flush or fill it.Sand off the factory colour with 400 grit and 600 grit.Shave off the left hinge bump cutters, Dremel, files and sandpaper will get you there.I recommend taking a look and see what you like the most. The Flat style, the most cost effective and my choice for this build.Įvery style also has the option of plugging the X and Y buttons or leaving as is, often a '4 button' or '2 button' style comes up when researching macro designs, and some have bezel options that can match the GBA aspect ratio, or left as is. The 3D Print option a search on Thingiverse or Shapeways shows styles you can print yourself or order on a printing service.Ĥ. The CNC Aluminium style that replaces the original faceplate with a machined finish anodized plate expensive but gorgeous.ģ. The Lightbar style that uses a clear acrylic rod with LED's mounted where the hinge used to be for a clean, affordable and effective look no faceplate modifications are required.Ģ. The Gameboy Macro has 4 distinct styles I've categorized you can choose from:ġ. Now it's time for cosmetics, and we have a lot of options here. To state here, the black and white cable and the barrel can be discarded and will never need to be reassembled but the BIOS chip is required, so keep hold of that! Pull the barrel out of the left side of the DS faceplate to separate it from the top screen housing.įrom this point you have done every step needed to start the macro conversion. Unlatch the bottom ribbon cable the same way the top screen was separated. Unlatch the top screen ribbon cable by sliding in tweezers and lifting the black latch up, similar to the digitizer cable latch. Unfold the motherboard from the faceplate the only thing connected will be the top screen ribbon cable. Unlatch the digitizer ribbon tab with tweezers by sliding it in and lifting it up, then pop the white cable off. Unscrew the screw marked in pink that holds the board to the faceplate. Pull the black cable out from the side underneath the cartridge reader the head of the black cable can be cut off if needed as this part will be discarded. Pop off the BIOS chip and the black wire the BIOS chip can be wiggled off by pinching the left side and tilting back and forth. Separate the front and back halves, remove the power switch, the volume switch and shoulder buttons carefully Locate the 8 screws (2 behind the rubber bumpers circled orange) and unscrew. Flip it on its back and loosen the battery tray, taking the battery with it. Check the annotations on each image for extra info and keep your parts organised. I've included 2 links showing the same procedure in case a step is unclear. This has lots of steps but done slowly and methodically can be done with relative ease.
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